TileFixDirect.com supplies all the waterproofing, tanking, shower tray bases, and drainage that are required for the construction of your dream Wet Room. Unlike other Wet Room suppliers TileFixDirect.com offers a choice of different waterproofing and tanking products to ensure you have the right Wet Room solution for your project.
As a specialist tile and Wet Room distributor established for over 50 years our products, service and design solutions will give you full confidence in the designing and installation of your Wet Room.
A room as small as 800 x 800mm can be big enough for your Wet Room!
The main consideration is to check that there is sufficient drainage. Our Wet Room Dallmer drain is only 87mm deep which can be accommodated under most floors. There needs to be sufficient fall between the drain and the stack. Check that there are no re-inforced steel joists in the way. The Wet Room shower trays come in a large variety of sizes with centre and off centre drains to facilitate drain placement. Wet Rooms can be fitted over timber or screeded floors.
The Showerlay Wet Room Shower Tray is a very cost effective, light and easy to handle tray. It is formed with a fully waterproof closed cell polystyrene core with a cement scrim to back and front for strength. The drain junction is reinforced. The Wet Room Shower Tray must be fully supported over it's complete area and the drain encased and supported in either a boxed sand and cement screed or expanded polyurethane foam. Mosaics under 50 x 50mm should not be used unless the shower tray will only be subject to foot traffic. Showerlay trays can be trimmed to fit and are easy to cut. If trimming both sides of the tray should be trimmed equally with no more than 100mm trimmed from opposite sides.
Waterproofing Wet Room Walls
You only need to waterproof those walls that will get wet!
Plasterboard walls should be removed and replaced with Marmox Tile Backer Boards. Follow the instructions for studwork walls above. Please note that 'water resistant' plasterboard is NOT waterproof and will deteriorate when in long term contact with water. Do not use this type of plasterboard in the wet areas of your wet room.
Plaster walls should not be used in wet areas, so either remove and replace with Marmox fitted using the dry lining method or over fix 10 or 12.5mm Marmox boards by sticking with PROFIX Flexible Fast Set adhesive and mechanically fixing with 15 SUPA PRO 2" screws and SUPA PRO TBB washers. Tape joints as per Studwork partition instructions. If using a light tile (6mm or less in thickness) the plaster surface can be left (if in a clean, sound and un-painted) and waterproofed using BAL WP1 Showerproofing Kit.
Brick or Blockwork walls should be over fixed using Marmox 10 or 12.5mm Tile Backer Boards using the drylining method, and taped as per the instructions under studwork partition walls.
Ply or other wood based walls must be removed and replaced with Marmox Tile Backer Board.
Tiled walls need to be checked that they are free from grease, dust, dirt etc and that the weight of the new tiles, waterproofing, the old tiles and all the adhesive will not exceed the weight permitted for the underlying surface (plaster 20kg/m2, plasterboard 32kg/m2, render 40kg/m2 and Marmox Tile Backer Board 62kg/m2).
Waterproofing Wet Room Floors
You are likely to have either a screeded or a timber based sub floor in your Wet Room. Both will need waterproofing. If you have a timber floor you need to ensure that the floor is well fixed and rigid. Screw loose floorbaords (ensuring you miss any water pipes below). Our two methods of waterproofing the floor are of different thickness, so you need to consider the finished floor height. Using GMat for Wet Rooms and a 9mm thick tile your finished floor height will be 17mm above the sub floor (9mm of tile, 4mm of adhesive, and 4mm of GMat matting). Using 10mm of Marmox Tile Backer and Insulation Board the finished floor height will be 23mm above the sub floor. The finished floor height is most apparent at the doorway to your Wet Room. If the door opens inwards you may need to trim the bottom of the door and an unattractive may be visible from outside the Wet Room. You may wish to consider changing the door so it opens outwards.
Using GMat works as a thin (4mm) waterproofing membrane and uncoupling system (movement in the floor will not be transferred through the tiles). The GMat matting is stuck to the floor using PROFIX Flexible Fast Set adhesive with the Ardex WPJ Waterproofing Jointing Kit used to waterproof all the joints between the matting and shower tray and as an 'L' shaped skirting round the perimeter to waterproof the joint between the floor and wall.
A Wet Room would not be complete without an underfloor heating system. The luxury of walking on warm tiles has to be experienced and it also helps to keep the floor dry. There are several solutions available, but we recommend the Magnum Enerfoil system. As most Wet Rooms will be installed with a heated radiator or towel rail there is no requirement for the underfloor heating to be the primary source of heat in the room, rather you will only require comfort heating where you walk. This system does not require a room thermostat or complicated wiring and being less than 1mm thick does not make a material difference to the finished floor height. The only stipulation is that after fixing the foil coating and edgings must be finished with a coat of BAL WP1 Showerproofing Kit
Can I fix a Wet Room myself
A competent craftsman or experienced DIY person should be capable of completing a Wet Room if care and attention to detail is undertaken. As with all projects the success is found in careful planning and not rushing.
The essential part of a wet room construction is to ensure that the floors and shower area are fully watertight, boards and surfaces are fixed firmly and able to take the weight of the tiles you intend to use.
We would be delighted to see the completed pictures of your completed project!